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Wine Wisdom: Spain’s Rioja Wine y un poco de su historia (and a little of its story)

“Sharing a glass of wine with others is like sharing a piece of your life with others.”

-Quote from film Rioja: The Land of a Thousand Wines-

Have you ever been to Rioja, Spain with the goal of tasting delicious wines? Whether you have or have not, you would definitely enjoy “Rioja: The Land of a Thousand Wines.”

Recently, several OCWS members purchased tickets and viewed the film at the Newport Beach 25th Film Festival. This documentary, through captivating cinematography and photography, kept our attention by exploring not only the vibrant evolution of Rioja’s wine industry but its rich traditions, revered history and generational culture differences expressed with great passion. We hope we can share this film at our very own OCWS event. In the meantime, we will share some interesting information about Rioja.  

Wine is a bond – enjoy an encounter.

-“Rioja: The Land of a Thousand Wines”

Rioja is located in northeast Spain. The Ebro River and surrounding mountains define the region of Rioja. The film refers to Rioja as a sleeping lion, a mountain silhouette that looks like the majestic beast a slumber.

Rioja has three main zones: Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta and Rioja Oriental. The region has three primary soil types: clay mixed with limestone and sandstone, iron rich clay, and loamy soil with alluvial silt from the Ebro River. The altitudes range from 984 feet to nearly 3,000 feet above sea level.

In 1925 Rioja became one of just two Qualified Denomination of Origin (DOCa) regions in Spain, making it one of the most recognized premium wine producing areas. The region is highly regulated by a classification system. For example, regulations require aging in oak and bottle for certain periods of time before release and what information may or must be stated on the label. It is a well-known fact that many traditional wineries choose to exceed minimum aging regulations.

Rioja’s wine production is 90% red wines with styles ranging from young and fresh to complex and aged. Age designations from young to aged are Joven, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. If the wine bottle does not state an age designation, then look at the black label or neck label which will carry a regulation council stamp with its designation. American Oak Barrels are still favored, but French Oak is used as well.

“The value of wine in an old vineyard is the value of time.”

-Quote from film Rioja: The Land of a Thousand Wines-

Rioja’s primary red grape varietals consist of Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo (Carinena) and Graciano. Viura (also known as Macabeo) is the primary white grape of the Rioja region. Rioja wines are typically blended to provide balance and structure. However, singular vineyard model classifications are excelling. Specific vineyards in Rioja are referred to as parcels, villages and regions. The same “parcel” each year is being harvested, compared, contrasted and placed on the label.

During France’s Phylloxera period, around 1983, Rioja took advantage of the opportunity for becoming a main source of wine in Europe. The good news, during this period, was the French started buying and planting vineyards in Rioja and through France’s profound influence, the sharing of valuable winemaking techniques took place.

Yet, at France’s expense, Rioja made a lot of money from the sales of wine. Yet eventually Phylloxera impacted Rioja vineyards and American root stock had to be purchased and used for grafting.

Even though Rioja is one of Spain’s most advanced wine regions using modern fermentation techniques, it is proud to still maintain a strong respect for history and reverence for tradition. It regularly practices the theme of “Respect the wisdom of old ways – and the flavors that result from them” and “Take your legacy from the past and combine it with a never stop learning attitude.”

FACT:

Traditional family-owned wineries in Rioja:  Marqu’es de Murrieta and Lopez de Heredia. Wines usually reflect notes of “echos of earth,” old saddle leather, dried leaves.

Modernists Wineries in Rioja:  Marques de Caceres, Martinez Bujanda, Palacio y Hermanos. Wines usually reflect vivid upfront fruit character, jamminess, and a small portion of oak.

FUN FACT

Have you ever seen Rioja wine wrapped in a thin wire red net or mesh? This practice dates to the 19th century when wineries sought to protect their wines by preventing unscrupulous people from refilling premium Rioja wine bottles with inferior wine. Today this practice is solely decorative.

Whether you have or have not been to Rioja Spain with the goal of tasting delicious wines, we encourage you to find a bottle of Rioja wine, open it and enjoy!

Linda Flemins, Wine Education Committee, linda@ocws.org