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Courtyard Featured Member

Master of the Cellar

If you have been in the Orange County Wine Society for some time, you are probably aware of the various positions needed to make the organization run smoothly. But none may be as important – or as cool – as being the esteemed Cellarmaster.

For roughly the past 40 years, the Cellarmaster has been responsible for organizing the cellar and doling out wine gathered from the OC Fair Wine Competition to OCWS events.

The position, which is appointed by the sitting OCWS president, has been occupied by only a handful of the society’s more knowledgeable minds. The honor has been bestowed on Bill Redding, who has served in many roles, including president.

On a recent summer day, as dozens of volunteers worked feverishly to set up The Courtyard for the upcoming fair, Redding himself was busy preparing the cellar for the heavy foot traffic over the next few weeks.

Redding explained it was former OCWS President and Cellarmaster Charley Owen who built the cellar when The Courtyard was being transformed to its current state. Owen got all of the pallets donated that are in each cubby hole. He was meticulous about the cellar design.

Being Cellarmaster is equal parts about doing the small things like checking the cellar’s temperature and cleanliness but also some of the heavy lifting by providing certain types of wines for a host of events.

A major responsibility of the cellar master is to get the wines sorted into lots for the annual auction. This task takes about 10 working days and requires the help of 12 to 14 volunteers each year.

Redding, a former high school science teacher and administrator, said those skills he acquired in the education field have helped him while being Cellarmaster.

The position is part manager, part liaison, all the while keeping track of the wines going in and out of the cellar.

Redding pulled out a big white binder that tracks the order requests submitted for events where wine is being poured such as the Spring and Fall socials and the annual Wine Auction.

“Part of the job is deciding what wines each event gets,” Redding said. “My philosophy is that I give a mix of award-winning and non-award-winning wines that are representative of the Commercial Competition.”

The job also entails a strong knowledge of wine – which means Redding needs to whet his palette with different varietals. .

“For the last 20 years, I have been trying everything I can,” he said. “I don’t turn my nose down to anything.

Being Cellarmaster enhances the enjoyment and the value of wine. You are getting to learn a lot more. It’s like you aren’t reading grade-level books anymore – you are reading college-level books.”

Redding, who has served more than eight years in the role and is helped by Cellar Manager Kevin Coy and Assistant Cellarmaster George Cravens, suggests if anyone ever wants to assume the role that they have a good working knowledge of the Commercial Competition and how OCWS operates.

Redding, along with the other nine previous Cellarmasters, has his name adorned on a cork-lined wine glass rack tucked in the back of the cellar. He appreciates the opportunity afforded to him by being appointed Cellarmaster.

“It’s very fulfilling and has been a privilege,” Redding said. “You get paid with knowledge.”

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Featured Member Stellar Cellars

Stellar Cellars – Beacon of Flights

Unlike a traditional lighthouse that warns ships they are close to the shore, the beacon at Mike Paz’s home in Yorba Linda serves a completely different purpose – it’s time to make or drink wine.

When he’s in the cellar, the 15-foot-high tower built with stacked stone and adorned with the colorful bottoms of wine bottles, is illuminated signaling Paz is inside.

Curious neighbors had to know what was going on, so they stopped by and they were fortunate they did.

Not only does he make wine out of his 93 square-foot cellar located in his yard, he also has a wide selection of fine wine that will delight any palate.

“When the light is on, my wife knows I’m in the cellar,” Paz cracked. “Neighbors would come over to see what I was making and word started to spread.”

The cellar, which serves as a laboratory as well as storage, cost $5,000 to build and was partly inspired by Paz’s desire to make wine in 2010. As a member of the Orange County Wine Society, he and other members would go on trips to different regions in California to learn about winemaking.

“For me, it was about developing relationships with winemakers,” Paz said. “I want to know the latest and greatest techniques. They give you a lot of hints are are able to share ideas.”

His cellar can accommodate about 300 bottles and about 85 percent of his collection is wine made under his label — Paz-Espana.

Paz’s grandfather designed a house for a man in Mexico who opened his doors to those who were persecuted for their religious beliefs during the Cristeros War. In 1977, Paz was able to make the trek to Polanco, Mexico and visit the home.

When he knocked on the door to the tri-level house that sat on a corner (similar to the Flatiron Building), the man who was well into his 90s, let Paz inside for a tour. He also gave Paz a sheet with his grandfather’s original drawing that now serves as the design for the wine label along with the family coat of arms from Spain.

Paz makes about eight to 10 cases of wine a year, primarily reds like Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. He has quite a few medals from home wine competitions but maybe most impressive is winning a Double Gold and being named Best in Class at the California State Fair in 2017 for his Chardonnay.

“You eventually become your own critic,” Paz said of his wines. “I’ve learned you can’t make good wine from bad grapes.”

His cellar is always 85-90 percent stocked and the star of his collection is a bottle of the renowned Sassicaia. Much of the wine he produces he shares with others or gives away. His niece is getting married soon and take a guess what the guests will be drinking?

As for those neighbors, they not only drink the wine, they have helped Paz along the way.

“They feel like they are part of it. It’s something they would never experience,” Paz said. “There’s a whole romance to wine. It becomes a talking point, a conversation starter and it’s something we all enjoy.”

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Featured Member

Flavors of Italia

In Our Own Backyard:  DeFalco Family Wines

Winemaking has long been a family tradition for Gus DeFalco. Growing up in Toronto, a young Gus remembers waiting at the train station for the precious cargo – California grapes – an event that became a family tradition.

His family hailed from Italy and relocated to the popular Canadian city. There, Gus learned the tools of the trade but it also instilled in him the communal aspect of the hobby he grew to love. There was the backyard crush, fermenting in the basement and then pressing the grapes before they were placed into barrels.

He eventually landed in Southern California as a teen, living with his aunt. So enamored with the area, he decided to stay and his family followed thereafter.

Gus and a friend opened a pizzeria in Alhambra before he was drafted into the Army. When he returned, his interest in winemaking only intensified – hence he joined home winemaking groups in the Orange County Wine Society and Cellar Masters.

He improved his skills at UC Davis and Fresno State. During this time, he connected with growers who he still has relationships with today.

“I’ve known some of them for 20 plus years and I get grapes from the same rows,” Gus said. “It really is about the people and who you know. That’s how it all begins.”

He credits the home winemaking groups for refining his craft and propelling his to another level.

“You can’t fail making wine with the OCWS home wine group; there’s like 500 years combined experience and when you combine that with getting great grapes, making wine is a piece of cake,” he said. “I would have made wine regardless but I wouldn’t have gotten to this point. The support has been tremendous.”

Gus decided to venture out on his own and started Orange Coast Winery in Newport Beach more than a decade ago. The winery has been a mainstay in Orange County and Gus is proud of what he accomplished. He later passed the reins to Doug and Debbie Wiens, who have their own well-known winery in Temecula.

Although Gus never thought he would be winemaking for a living, he still wanted to have a hand in the game. This past April, he and his wife, Jennifer, opened DeFalco Family Foods & Wines in Fountain Valley. He calls it a “winery with an Italian mini-mart,” equipped with homemade Italian foods and wines.

Winemaker Gus DeFalco shares his pride and joy with a group of customers at his Fountain Valley establishment.

Only open for five hours on Saturdays – similar to a farmers market — the store has an intimate tasting room that can hold 16 people around a large table in the center of the room. Gus is both winemaker and server as he tells guests about each of the 12 varietals – six whites and six reds – he pours.

“I love the people part of it and sharing what I made with them,” he said. “People are probably coming in here not thinking much of the wine but they are pleasantly surprised.”

One recent afternoon, a group of women were enjoying the wine and the camaraderie when Gus asked one of them as they left what they thought of the wine.

“I’d give the wine a 9 (out of 10),” she replied as Gus beamed in appreciation.

It would be hard to escape the tasting room without picking anything up from the store. There are a host of sauces, heat-and-eat entrees, pastas, salad dressings, cookies and even a limoncello tiramisu (see sidebar for recipe). The couple offer three wines, three sauces, three pastas and three packages of cookies for $125.

Gus says he plans to produce about 1,000 cases of wine in 2024 and hopes that word of mouth helps drive customers to his store. He envisions that reservations will be needed every Saturday for his intimate tasting room.

“I’m at my pinnacle right now,” he said. “This is exactly what I wanted.”

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Featured Member Winery Industry

One of Our Own… Gone Commercial

Big Nose Winery is an offspring from one of our very own home winemakers. I am sure you know him. Roger Mattar.

He and his wife Janice have been making home wine in Orange County since 2012. It became a passion that arose from traveling around wine country. Every vacation involved wineries and wine tasting. Intrigued with the concept, they decided to try it for themselves.

From the beginning, though, they sought out experienced assistance. They discovered OCWS and encountered some great mentors along the way. For Roger, making wine was like raising children. He nurtured them during fermentation. At night, he couldn’t sleep, thinking about them. And, like well-cared-for children, the Mattars’ wines were excellent.

Deciding to enter his ‘progeny’ in the Orange County Home Wine Competition, he earned a Double Gold for his Merlot. They continued to produce award-wining wines, garnering multiple medals from various competitions.

But Roger wasn’t satisfied. He wanted to know more about winemaking. Whereupon he completed a three-year enology program at Missouri State University in 2018 (fellow winemakers take note)!

Immediately, they took the plunge. They took their winemaking skills commercial, obtaining their commercial license and creating Big Nose Winery that same year. And you gotta love their simple silhouette-like logo.

It wasn’t until 2021 that they found their new home. Janice liked the Temecula area so when a place came available, they went for it in October that year.

Today, the Mattars make Bordeaux-style wines focusing on red varietals, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. They also produce some wonderful whites such as Viognier and Pinot Grigio.

They purchase grapes as they cannot grow their own. Of course, that works in their favor. Roger is able to pick and choose the grapes he wants to use, thus getting the best from all parts of California. They acquire grapes from as far south as San Diego to up north from Sonoma. And, of course, he does get some varietals locally in Temecula.

Already, he has expanded his production to include Petit Sirah, Petit Verdot and, coming either this year or next, Tannat. They produce a rosé and a dessert wine as well.

Additionally, he and Janice are experimenting with blends. It’s a team effort that includes experience, planning and the necessary tasting trials. Big Nose Meritage is one such mastered blend, but their latest, a quite superb blend, is Sumptuous.

The wines are truly excellent. They continue to earn Double Golds and other awards at the OCWS competitions, but this time in the Commercial Competition.

Roger told me he does not have a favorite. Says Roger, “they are all my babies. I like them all. But some are easier than others.”

I think we know where he’s going with that.

When I asked Roger if he had any advice for the newbies to winemaking, he suggests, “Find a mentor. There are a lot in the Orange County Wine Society.”

As we finished our tasting experience, I asked him what his family thought about his new career path. He said they were a family-oriented group and he was fully supported. He added that food is family. “We share the same passion,” he told me. As concerns the Big Nose wines, his closing remark, “Aroma comes first.”

As it turns out, this is where the Big Nose Winery name derives from: “the name was chosen with the wines’ aroma in mind taking special note of your senses while indulging in your wine tasting experience.”

Having visited Big Nose Winery a few times now, we are starting to encounter repeat customers, a true sign of producing a successful product. One such return customer told me that the wines from Big Nose Winery are some of the best in the Temecula Valley. I’d say that’s a great endorsement.

Go see Roger and Janice and try the wines. You will find their quaint, rustic and charming tasting room in The Hotel Temecula. It is part of a structure dating back to 1883, in Old Town Temecula on Main Street. They’re open Thursday through Sunday. Check out their website – bignosefamilywinery.com – for more complete information.

By W. Scott Harral

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Featured Member

Bottles in the Birdhouse

Story & Photos by Greg Risling

Pay one visit to the home of Betty Jo and Jay Newell in Yorba Linda and you will know why they enjoy hosting mini-tastings, parties and other events.

They have a sprawling and inviting backyard made for outdoor gatherings that once was home to a stable of horses and even a sand volleyball court. But it’s the large structure in the corner of the backyard that houses one of the couple’s favorite spots.

Jay Newell (above) punches in the code to enter his cellar. (Right) The 800-square-foot cellar stores up to 800 bottles.

Known as the “Birdhouse,” – affectionately named after Jay found a weather vane that now sits affixed at the top of what looks like an oversized garage – the building serves several functions but none better than the wine cellar tucked away in the corner.

When Jay, a retired investigator with the Orange County District Attorney’s Office, was diagnosed with cancer in 2017, he knew putting in a wine cellar was a priority “in case things didn’t work out.”

He got right to work, designing their dream cellar and doing much of the work himself. He arched the ceiling in an expressive manner, coated the space tightly with insulation (the cellar sometimes doubles as a backup refrigerator) and had the wine racks specially designed.

“I really researched it,” Jay fondly recalls. “I wanted it to be easily accessible and easy enough where you don’t have to search for that certain bottle. It is bigger than what I planned.”

The result is an 850 square-foot showpiece that can store up to 800 bottles. The rows are all numbered 1 to 46 and he meticulously keeps a binder of his inventory and cataloging that gives him quick access to find the right wine to serve to guests or to bring to their favorite restaurant.

“If we feel like drinking a certain type of wine, we go right to the cellar and grab a bottle,” Betty Jo said. “We always take a bottle with us to a restaurant. There is enough variety in the cellar that makes the decision easy for us.”

Mind you, the cellar isn’t completely stocked. Jay estimates there are somewhere between 400 and 500 bottles on average, worth somewhere in the neighborhood of $15,000 to $20,000. The Newells most expensive bottle is a $400+ 2013 Daou Cabernet Sauvignon.

When the couple first joined OCWS about six years ago, they stuck to drinking Cabernet Sauvignon and other popular varietals. But that all changed once they got involved, attended OCWS events and met new friends. Now, any OCWS member who has the fortune to visit their home, will get an added bonus of marveling at their cellar.

“Joining the wine society expanded our appreciation of different varietals,” Betty Jo said. “We have a whole circle of friends who are society members thanks to joining.”

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Best of Featured Member Members Corner

“Best of” Recipe & Wine Pairings—April 2021

The Comfort Food and Wine Pairings seminar presented on February 21st by Ed Reyes and Sara Yeoman had a lot of us salivating and ready to comfort eat our way through several days to come. For me personally, the highlight was watching and listening to Ed describe his Chicken Pot Pie recipe. By the look on his face and the tone of his voice, I knew this one was a winner, as it’s obvious that this dish is among his favorites and most soothing. For anyone who is fortunate enough to know Ed, you know he’s not only one of the nicest people in the world, but an accomplished home winemaker and cook extraordinaire. He has the innate sense of taste and smell that makes the world’s finest chefs stand out above the rest.

Ed Reyes

Many of us have had the pleasure of attending seminars presented by Ed on various wines and wine pairings. His understanding and explanations of what wines pair with what foods never ceases to amaze me. 

For this recipe, Ed paired a Sauvignon Blanc for the herbal notes of the wine as the recipe is creamy and rich and the SB cuts through the richness. Ed further suggests a Pinot Noir, for red lovers, for the exact same reason. I’d wager that a lot of us will be trying this recipe soon. Thanks, Ed, for your willingness to always share your knowledge, love and enthusiasm for food and wine.

Chicken Pot Pie ala Ed Reyes

Makes 6 servings

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large shallot, finely chopped

1 tablespoon chopped thyme

½ cup dry white wine (Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio)

½ cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

3 cups low sodium chicken broth

1 cup heavy cream

1/8 teaspoon dry mustard

Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper

1 large sprig fresh rosemary

2 bay leaves

2 medium carrots (about 6 oz), peeled, chopped

1 medium russet potato, peeled, cut into ½-inch dice

4 cups coarsely chopped or shredded rotisserie chicken meat (from 1 small rotisserie chicken)

1 ½ cups frozen pearl onions, thawed

1 ½ cups frozen peas, thawed

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

1 sheet puff pastry, thawed in refrigerator

1 large egg, lightly beaten

Preheat oven to 400°. Heat butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add shallot and thyme and cook, stirring often until shallot is translucent, about 3 minutes. Add wine and continue stirring until wine is reduced by half. Add ½ cup flour and cook, whisking constantly, until mixture is pale golden, about 5 minutes.

Whisk in broth, ½ cupful at a time, incorporating completely before adding more. Whisk in cream and dry mustard. Season with salt and pepper, add rosemary sprig and bay leaves. Bring mixture to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, whisking occasionally, until thick enough to coat a spoon, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat as needed to maintain a simmer and add carrots and potatoes. Cook until vegetables are nearly tender, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Remove rosemary sprig and bay leaves. Mix in chicken, pearl onions and peas. Add Worcestershire sauce, taste and adjust salt and pepper, if needed. Transfer mixture to a shallow 2quart baking dish.

Unfold pastry and gently roll out on a lightly floured work surface just to smooth out creases and, if needed, make it large enough to fit over dish. Drape over baking dish and trim pastry so it is slightly larger than the dish (you want a little overhang). Brush with egg and make 2 or 3 slits in the pastry with a sharp knife.

Place baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet (to catch any filling that may drip over) and bake until puff pastry is golden brown, and filling is bubbling through slits, about 20–30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350° and continue to bake until crust is deep golden and cooked through, 30–35 minutes longer. Let sit 10 minutes before serving.

– Fran Gitsham, Contributing Writer

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Featured Member

Featured Member: Bruce Powers

Many of us know Bruce as a key member of the Winemakers’ Group. But there is much more to know about Bruce.

The story starts more than 40 years ago. Bruce and his friend were out for a joy ride on his friend’s motorcycle. They came upon a girl in a Camaro, and to impress her, they popped a wheelie. Bruce fell off the back and she nearly ran him over. After she picked him up off the road, they got to chatting and she drove him home. A year later they were dating . . . she nearly killed him when they first met, now Bruce and Jeanine have been happily married for 39 years!

As a boy in Seal Beach, Bruce dreamed about cars and car racing. When he was older, he began working on cars, particularly Porsches, with local car mechanics. In the 1970s, Bruce raced in Sports Car Club of America events as well as Off-Road events.

While earning his engineering degree, he became an ASE Certified Master Technician. After graduating into a very tight economy and newly married, Bruce decided to open his own auto service business in Huntington Beach, Autowerkes. Jeanine handled the books. Autowerkes specializes in Porsche, BMW, and Mercedes. Attention to detail in auto repair and providing outstanding customer service have helped him grow his business with customers coming from all over Orange County. Bruce also helps run Autocross events and sponsors a Porsche Boxter in competitions.

Always athletic, Bruce has run over 30 marathons. Many family vacations were scheduled around key marathons. Bruce recently ran a 10K with the older of their two daughters – she won, we hear. Bruce’s athletic talents extend into coaching volleyball, as his two daughters played. He developed and published a primer on how to coach students entitled “Blueprint of a Champion” which is still available online.

Those who visit Bruce and Jeanine in their lovely Spanish style home are welcomed by a menagerie. There are currently three horses, including Genevieve who is blind, two ducks named Donald and Melania, three dogs, a cat, and most famously, Marcel the Donkey, who has been featured on their wine labels.

As a winemaker, Bruce has made several varietals over the years, most notably, Sangiovese (which he has planted at his home in Orange Park Acres), Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, several Rosé wines, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and even champagne. He has received several Double Gold, Gold and Silver awards at the Home Wine Competition.

For the past 2 to 3 years, Bruce has also been the chief liaison for the Winemakers’ Group in sourcing grapes and juice from Chris van Alyea and has made several trips, along with Dave Wiegand, to Solterra Winery for pickup and delivery to Orange County.

Bruce also conducted a workshop for making Rosé wine to the Winemakers’ Group and during this year’s crush gave a handson demonstration of how to press off the juice before fermenting.

It is Bruce’s focus on service, assistance, and education that we are celebrating and featuring in this edition of The Wine Press. It is members like Bruce that make the OCWS a very special group of people!