The Must is Orange!
The white grape juice or must, just pressed, with skins, stems and seeds included is “orange?’ What’s that all about? Someone is making orange wine? What is orange wine? Let’s find out.
The Must is Orange!
The white grape juice or must, just pressed, with skins, stems and seeds included is “orange?’ What’s that all about? Someone is making orange wine? What is orange wine? Let’s find out.
“Sharing a glass of wine with others is like sharing a piece of your life with others.”
-Quote from film Rioja: The Land of a Thousand Wines-
Have you ever been to Rioja, Spain with the goal of tasting delicious wines? Whether you have or have not, you would definitely enjoy “Rioja: The Land of a Thousand Wines.”
Recently, several OCWS members purchased tickets and viewed the film at the Newport Beach 25th Film Festival. This documentary, through captivating cinematography and photography, kept our attention by exploring not only the vibrant evolution of Rioja’s wine industry but its rich traditions, revered history and generational culture differences expressed with great passion. We hope we can share this film at our very own OCWS event. In the meantime, we will share some interesting information about Rioja.
Wine is a bond – enjoy an encounter.
-“Rioja: The Land of a Thousand Wines”
Rioja is located in northeast Spain. The Ebro River and surrounding mountains define the region of Rioja. The film refers to Rioja as a sleeping lion, a mountain silhouette that looks like the majestic beast a slumber.
Rioja has three main zones: Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta and Rioja Oriental. The region has three primary soil types: clay mixed with limestone and sandstone, iron rich clay, and loamy soil with alluvial silt from the Ebro River. The altitudes range from 984 feet to nearly 3,000 feet above sea level.
In 1925 Rioja became one of just two Qualified Denomination of Origin (DOCa) regions in Spain, making it one of the most recognized premium wine producing areas. The region is highly regulated by a classification system. For example, regulations require aging in oak and bottle for certain periods of time before release and what information may or must be stated on the label. It is a well-known fact that many traditional wineries choose to exceed minimum aging regulations.
Rioja’s wine production is 90% red wines with styles ranging from young and fresh to complex and aged. Age designations from young to aged are Joven, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. If the wine bottle does not state an age designation, then look at the black label or neck label which will carry a regulation council stamp with its designation. American Oak Barrels are still favored, but French Oak is used as well.
“The value of wine in an old vineyard is the value of time.”
-Quote from film Rioja: The Land of a Thousand Wines-
Rioja’s primary red grape varietals consist of Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo (Carinena) and Graciano. Viura (also known as Macabeo) is the primary white grape of the Rioja region. Rioja wines are typically blended to provide balance and structure. However, singular vineyard model classifications are excelling. Specific vineyards in Rioja are referred to as parcels, villages and regions. The same “parcel” each year is being harvested, compared, contrasted and placed on the label.
During France’s Phylloxera period, around 1983, Rioja took advantage of the opportunity for becoming a main source of wine in Europe. The good news, during this period, was the French started buying and planting vineyards in Rioja and through France’s profound influence, the sharing of valuable winemaking techniques took place.
Yet, at France’s expense, Rioja made a lot of money from the sales of wine. Yet eventually Phylloxera impacted Rioja vineyards and American root stock had to be purchased and used for grafting.
Even though Rioja is one of Spain’s most advanced wine regions using modern fermentation techniques, it is proud to still maintain a strong respect for history and reverence for tradition. It regularly practices the theme of “Respect the wisdom of old ways – and the flavors that result from them” and “Take your legacy from the past and combine it with a never stop learning attitude.”
FACT:
Traditional family-owned wineries in Rioja: Marqu’es de Murrieta and Lopez de Heredia. Wines usually reflect notes of “echos of earth,” old saddle leather, dried leaves.
Modernists Wineries in Rioja: Marques de Caceres, Martinez Bujanda, Palacio y Hermanos. Wines usually reflect vivid upfront fruit character, jamminess, and a small portion of oak.
FUN FACT:
Have you ever seen Rioja wine wrapped in a thin wire red net or mesh? This practice dates to the 19th century when wineries sought to protect their wines by preventing unscrupulous people from refilling premium Rioja wine bottles with inferior wine. Today this practice is solely decorative.
Whether you have or have not been to Rioja Spain with the goal of tasting delicious wines, we encourage you to find a bottle of Rioja wine, open it and enjoy!
—Linda Flemins, Wine Education Committee, linda@ocws.org
September’s Varietal Hour was all about Pinots. Well almost. Of course, the French grapes; Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Meunier, as well as the Italian grape, Pinot Grigio, were all discussed.
But what about the lesser known or even obsolete Pinot-X grape names? What about a Pinot grape that was bred specifically for one country or a Pinot grape that really wasn’t a Pinot grape? Test your knowledge as we go.
In 1924, at South Africa’s University of Stellenbosch a viticulture professor crossed two French varietals, one more robust with one more difficult to grow, to create a unique grape that would thrive in South Africa’s climate.
ANSWER: True. Professor Abraham Perold performed an open-air hybridization in the vineyard and not in a controlled greenhouse.
Which two French grapes did Professor Perold cross?
a) Pinot Noir and Merlot
b) Pinot Noir and Malbec
c) Pinot Noir and Cinsaut
d) Pinot Noir and Gamay Noir
ANSWER: C. Pinot Noir with Cinsaut or Cinsault, a red grape that is heat tolerant and grown predominantly in the Rhone Valley, Languedoc, Roussillon and Provence regions of Southern France.
Cinsault is one of the 13 approved grapes allowed to be used to make Chateauneuf du Pape wine.
ANSWER: True. Cinsault is a minor blending grape along with predominately Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre for red wine in the Southern Rhone region.
The grape, a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, was named PINOTAGE. Why?
a) Because Professor Perold wanted it to be a heritage grape of South Africa
b) Because an old South African name for Cinsaut was Hermitage
c) Because it took several stages to propagate
d) Because they didn’t like the name Herminoir
ANSWER: B and D. When the Cinsault grape originally arrived from France in the 1850’s it was misnamed as Hermitage. And yes, they discarded Herminoir!
Although Pinotage has failed to develop a significant presence in planted acreage, how many countries currently have Pinotage in their vineyards other than South Africa?
a) 2
b) 4
c) 6
d) 8
ANSWER: D. Eight very diverse countries are growing Pinotage: Brazil, Canada, Germany, Israel, New Zealand, Switzerland, U.S. (Arizona, California, Michigan, Oregon, Virginia and Washington) and Zimbabwe.
Every grape seems to have its day. On May 17 it’s Pinot Grigio Day; Aug. 18 is International Pinot Noir Day; and Dec. 16 is Pinot Meunier Day. Does Pinotage have a day?
a) Yes
b) No
ANSWER: Yes. International Pinotage Day is Oct. 12. Hope you didn’t miss it this year!
Now what about that obsolete Pinot grape?
In the 1880s and 1890s red French grapes were being planted in California and used to make wines sold as “Burgundy.” Pinot’s many synonyms caused a great deal of confusion when it came to naming the grapes being used to make the wine.
Which of these names were used as Pinot Noir synonyms in California vineyards?
a) Pinot Franc
b) Pinot Pernand
c) Pinot Noirien
d) Pinot St George
e) All of the above
ANSWER: E. Although three of these grape names are for true Pinot Noir Clones, one turned out later not to be a Pinot Noir Clone.
In 1997, it was determined through DNA testing that a California grape, believed to be a Pinot Noir clone was actually a grape from southwestern France, known as Negrette. In the same year the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (BATF) ruled that Negrette could no longer be called by what name?
a) Pinot France
b) Pinot Pernand
c) Pinot Noirien
d) Pinot St George
ANSWER: D. The name Pinot St George was originally used because it was believed that the grape came from the Nuits-St-George region of Burgundy.
The Negrette grape, although very rare, is from the French region of Frontonnais near Toulouse. Its origin is not known and genetic studies have not been able to determine a source, but legend has it that it was brought to France from the Near East by the Knights Templar.
a) True
b) False
c) Perhaps
ANSWER: C. Who knows? It’s a legend!
Negrette is rare not only in France but also California. But a few acres of Negrette can be found in which California county?
a) San Luis Obispo
b) Monterey
c) San Benito
d) Santa Cruz
ANSWER: C. The only two wineries I could find that make a Negrette wine are both in San Benito County—Stirm Wine Co. and DeRose Winery.
If it’s a Pinot cross, bred for a country or a Pinot that isn’t a Pinot, don’t get confused. No matter what it’s called, when you find one you like just open it and enjoy! Cheers!
—CL Keedy, Wine Education Committee
Hopefully, for most of us the 2024 Orange County Fair (OC Fair) is now another fun memory in our minds – or is it a “bubbly” memory? A “bubbly” memory of explosions of OC Fair food tastes; wine pouring energetic co-workers; and fun, fair fantasies, I mean memories! The 2024 OC Fair is over – time to celebrate! Below are some fun filled facts about the celebratory drink of Sparkling/Champagne:
1. What was the first commercially produced American sparkling wine made from 100 percent chardonnay grapes?
A. Korbel
B. Gloria Ferrer
C. Schramsberg
D. Scharffenberger
Answer:
C. Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs from Schramsberg Winery in Calistoga, California was first made in 1965 and the first commercially produced American sparkling wine made from 100 percent chardonnay grapes.
2. Because they tend to have a bit more body, which wine style generally goes well with main courses:
A. Roses
B. Bruts
C. Blanc de Blancs
Answer: A. Roses
3. True or False: There is no such thing as vintage champagne.
Answer:
False. Vintage Champagne is made from grapes from a single year harvest. Non-vintage Champagne is a blend of grapes from harvests from different years.
4. Approximately how many bubbles does a normal glass of Champagne have?
Answer:
D. Approximately 1 million. The one million figure comes from Gérard Liger-Belair, PhD, in the department of physics at the University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne, in France – he used special high-speed cameras!
5. The wire cage that holds a sparkling wine cork into the neck of the bottle is called a:
A. Birdcage
B. Stall
C. Helmet
D. Muzzle
Answer: D. Known in French as a muselet or muzzle, the wire cage that holds a Champagne or sparkling wine cork in place is very important in opening a bottle of bubbly safely. The muzzle should not be removed before the cork is eased out. Rather, the muzzle should be loosened (about six turns will loosen it), and then the wire removed with the cork at the same time.
6. Which of the below sparkling wines is usually NOT made in the traditional method of second fermentation in the bottle?
A. Spanish Cava
C. South African Cap Classique
D. French Crémant
Answer:
B. Lambrusco is usually what the Italians call frizzante (fizzy), not quite sparkling enough to be considered spumante (sparkling). Most is made by the Charmat method also known as the “Tank Method,” in large pressurized tanks. That said, just a few top Lambruscos are made by the Traditional method.
7. Which sparkling wine is not made in the Traditional Method or Method Champenoise?
A. Crémant d’Alsace
B. Prosecco
C. Cava
D. Franciacorta
Answer: B.
Prosecco is made by the Martinotti, Charmat, or tank method. In this method, the second fermentation (which creates the bubbles) takes place in a large tank. By contrast, in the traditional (Champagne) method, the second fermentation takes place inside each individual bottle. This is one of the reasons Prosecco is relatively inexpensive, while Champagne is relatively expensive.
8. Most of us know that the bubbles in a sparkling wine or champagne come from a second fermentation process. There are different methods to achieve this second fermentation process. In the Traditional/Classico/Method Champenoise methods a “Liqueur de Tirage” or dosage is inserted inside the bottle. This “Liqueur de Tirage” can be comprised of:
A. A wine-base and sugar (cane) liquid
B. A wine-base, sugar (cane), yeasts (indigenous or selected), and the addition of minerals.
C. A wine-base, sugar (cane), yeasts (indigenous or selected),
D. All of the above
Answer: D
9. What are the three main grapes that French Champagne regulations require to be used in making Champagne?
Answer:
D. Chardonnay (white), Pinot Noir (red), Pinot Meunier (red)
10. French Champagne regulations require at least 15 months of aging for Non-Vintage Champagnes including 12 months of lees aging before release, but Italian regulations require how many months of lees aging for their Franciacorta?
Answer:
A. Franciacorta must be aged 18 months, 24 months for Rose, 30 months for Millesimato (vintage) and 60 months for Riserva.
11. What region is the largest sparkling wine region in France?
A. The Loire Valley
B. The Rhône Valley
C. Champagne
D. Provence
Answer:
C. Champagne
12. What region is the second largest sparkling wine region in France?
B. The Rhône Valley
C. Provence
D. Alsace
Answer:
A. The Loire Valley. More sparkling wine is made in the Loire than in any other French region except Champagne.
13. This rustic method of making sparkling wine predates the Traditional Method and allows the wine to naturally re-ferment in the bottle causing wine to be carbonated but in more of a frizzante (fizzy) style. The wine is bottled before primary fermentation is finished, without the addition of secondary yeasts or sugars resulting in a cloudy, rustic bubbly that can sometimes smell pretty funky. This method is called:
Answer:
D. Pét-Nat is a contraction of the French term pétillant-naturel (natural sparkling). Pét-Nat sparklers can be white, rosé, or red and are usually stoppered with a crown cap (just like beer). Because of the way they are made, the sparklers have highly unpredictable flavors.
Next time you drink a glass of sparkling, think of it as what it really is, an explosion of bubbles – celebration bubbles! Cheers!
—Linda Flemins and CL Keedy, Wine Education Committee
Although William Shakespeare is not known as an oenophile, he was more prophetic than he imagined in his somewhat famous line from Julius Caesar. Yes, the fault is not in our stars.
The fault can be in our wine as many learned last month during the excellent Fault Workshop put on by OCWS members Don and Mary Ann Mayer. However, the fault can also be in our terroir.
Two articles, one by Natasha Geiling in Smithsonian Magazine (August 2014) titled “Why Earthquakes Make Napa Wine Taste So Good,” and the other by Elin McCoy in Decanter China magazine (July 2017) titled “Seismic shifts: Wines on fault lines,” delve into the effects of our shifting California soils on the vineyards we visit and the wines we drink.
But shifting soils and quaking barrel rooms are not unique to our home state, and neither is planting vineyards and building wineries on fault lines. You can find this in Oregon, and farther afield the same is true in Eastern France, New Zealand, Australia and Italy.
Is there a perceived benefit that overrides the associated risks? Yes, it’s the soil’s diversity—soil composed of limestone, sedimentary rocks, volcanic rocks and pieces of ancient sea floor millions of years old that has resulted from the formation of fault zones and the faults’ subsequent activity.
This mixture of soils is believed to add to a wine’s aroma and taste complexity. No scientific data corroborates this belief but some winemakers contend that some of the world’s best vineyards are planted near fault zones.
So don’t get the shakes peering at fault lines, it’s not a tragedy. And remember, it’s no fault of your own if you just find a wine you like and enjoy it. Cheers!
— CL Keedy, Wine Education Committee
Scroll down for answers:
What year did the show Mission: Impossible first air on TV:
This Wine Wisdom will not self-destruct in five seconds. Don’t disavow all knowledge of this mission. If you find the wine, enjoy it. Cheers!
—CL Keedy, Wine Education Committee
Before Thomas Jefferson planted 24 European varietals at Monticello in 1807; before the first American commercial winery was founded by John Dufour in Kentucky in 1799; and before the American Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776, the Franciscan Friars in 1769 planted California’s first vitis vinifera grapes at Mission San Diego de Alcala.
And in 1771 they planted the same varietal that was to become known as the Mission grape at Mission San Gabriel Arcangel. Centuries later the Mission grape, through DNA testing, would be identified as Listan Prieto, a red grape from the Spanish region of Castilla-La Mancha. But that’s a topic for another time.
By the mid 1860s, as the Civil War ended and German, Italian and French immigrants moved from the East Coast to San Diego, bringing vines and viticulture with them. The San Diego area wine industry grew for the next 50-plus years. However, a combination of events, which included the great flood of January 1916 caused by two weeks of rain from an El Nino storm, prohibition and Word War II, overwhelmed San Diego’s wine industry.
The recovery of San Diego’s wine production was marked by the creation of the San Pasqual Valley AVA in September 1981 as the fourth AVA established after Augusta, Missouri (June 1980), Napa Valley (January 1981) and Santa Maria Valley (August 1981). The San Pasqual Valley AVA has a total area of 9,000 acres along the banks of the San Dieguito River near Escondido with a Mediterranean climate conducive to growing Grenache, Merlot, Sangiovese, Tempranillo and Viognier.
In December 2005, San Diego was approved for a second AVA in Ramona Valley. Surrounding the town of Ramona, this AVA added 89,000 acres to San Diego County’s viticulture lands. And there are now more than 115 wineries in the county. So whenever or wherever it began, if you have the wine enjoy it!
—CL Keedy, Wine Education Committee
It’s often said that wine is made in the vineyard and there are several factors that make this true. One factor is the vineyard workers who care and tend for the vines. Another factor is the grape vine. The amazing plant that year after year, through a well-established annual growth cycle, produces the fruit that is made into wine.
What is that well-established annual cycle? After the harvest and during the winter months grape vines are dormant conserving energy for spring and new growth. It’s during the spring that the vine’s annual cycle begins to focus on wine. As the ground temperature begins to rise above 50 degrees, sap will begin to flow upward in the vine and out the tips of the canes (the vine’s branches) that were pruned during the winter months. This is referred to as “weeping.”
Within days, bud break occurs, greenery and tiny shoots emerge from the nodes left on the canes. Over the next one to two months, the shoots and greenery grow into new canes and leaves.
Flowering then begins. Tiny clusters of flowers appear along the canes and since vinifera grapes are self-pollinating, insects are not necessary for fertilization. Each fertilized flower becomes a “berry” and with the immature grapes sometimes being called “berries,” referred to as berry set or fruit set.
Over the following three to four months the vine, taking on water and nutrients and benefiting from the sun will grow the grapes from small, hard, green berries, high in acid and low in sugar to physiologically mature grapes that are higher in sugar and lower in acid. This important step in grape production is known as veraison and is when red grapes begin to color and white grapes become translucent or golden. Harvest is now near and the winemakers take over the responsibility of turning the vine’s hard work into the wine that we all enjoy.
From weeping to veraison—intrigued? Good, and if you like the wine then enjoy it! Cheers!
Do you have a question on wine, submit it to us at office@ocws.org?
—Wine Education Committee, CL Keedy
Do you like Montepulciano? Are you talking about geography or wine?
If you are talking geography, the town of Montepulciano, located in the Tuscany region of Italy, makes beautiful Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines (locally called Prugnolo Gentile) using Sangiovese grapes.
There are two basic qualities of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines. The higher quality is Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) requiring a minimum of 70% of Prugnolo Gentile Sangiovese grapes whose taste is often referred to as combining the elegance of Chianti Classico and the power of Brunello.
The lesser quality wine, but still delicious, is referred to as Rosso di Montepulciano DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata). More on the four types of classification for Italian wines (DOCG, DOC etc.) to come in a future article.
If you are talking wine, then that’s Montepulciano D’Abruzzo made from the Montepulciano grape in Italy’s central, eastern region of Abruzzo. In central and southern Italy, Abruzzo is the most productive region after Tuscany. In Abruzzo a majority of the wines are produced by co-ops. Most wines in this area are unremarkable and therefore more affordable, however, you can believe that efforts are being made to change that!
Montepulciano, are you talking geography or wine? Confused? Don’t be, if you like the wine then enjoy it. Cheers!
Do you have a question on wine, submit it to us at office@ocws.org
– Linda Flemins, CL Keedy and the Wine Education Committee
Winemakers are required by federal and state laws to list the alcohol level of a wine on the wine’s label. And “% ABV” stands for percentage alcohol by volume. Since wine labels get printed before final alcohol levels can be measured, California laws permit some leeway on the stated alcohol level.
If your wine’s label states 14% ABV or less, the allowed variance is 1.5%, and if the label states 14.1% ABV or higher, the allowed variance is 1%. So, a wine labeled 14% ABV can be as high as 15.5% or as low as 12.5% and a wine labeled 12.5% ABV can be as low as 11% and as high as 14%, while a wine labeled 14.1% ABV can be as high as 15.1% and as low as 13.1%.
Too much math? Nevermind. If you like the wine then enjoy it. Cheers!
Do you have a question on wine, submit it to us at office@ocws.org?
— Linda Flemins, CL Keedy, Wine Education Committee